Sali Hughes on beauty: the new crop of fig perfumes make perfect scents | Beauty

After a lengthy sabbatical, I’m ready to let fig fragrances back into my life. There were years when I couldn’t get enough of lush, green Philosykos by Diptyque – a bona fide masterpiece and the greatest of all fig scents. Then a million sugary, inferior dupes sullied the whole category, cynically transporting it from the fruit groves of Turkey to the air freshener aisle at Halfords. With familiarity, grew contempt. But a new crop of figs is emerging to restore reputation and none are attempting to pass off as Diptyque.

Tom Ford’s recent Figue Erotique (£188 for 30ml), takes fig at various stages of its life cycle (sharp, nutty, green and unripe; rich, juicy, warm and sun-drenched; and finally sugary, creamy and ready to burst) and isolates each in its own accord. Bigger and bolder than most figs, with a sultry, musky sexiness that reads almost as humid, it may not be your most worn in a heatwave (reach for Chloé’s vivid, sparkling fig, Plage du Figuier (£115 for 50ml) then) but do give it a sniff when next you’re next at the shops – it’s a glorious scent for all seasons.

If you find the price egregious (I hear you) or the scent too punchy, try Prada’s Infusion de Figue (£152 for 100ml). I didn’t love it at first but truly, this is the just-poured Guinness of fragrances – you’re going to have to wait to get the best of it.

Here, we deal with unripened figs – woody, sappy and fresh. The sweetness is gentle; a touch of mandarin zest cuts through the jam. It’s decent on first spray and delightful an hour later. And worth the spend, since 100ml contains the equivalent of two or three regular bottles of perfume.

Roger&Gallet’s fig is not as rich as Tom Ford’s, and is sweeter than Prada’s, but the price makes it a must-sniff if you’re fig-curious. Fleur de Figuier (£21 for 30ml) is pulpy, bright and cheerful, with stacks of vibrant citrus fruits. The green notes keep things grownup and the cumin (“sweaty” in so many fragrances) appears here as I’d want it: warm, woody and earthy, without weighing down what is an olfactory tonic. Imagine fig as a Starburst sweet and you get the idea.

All that said, I still believe Philosykos (£102 for 50ml in the best, in my view, eau de toilette incarnation) cannot be beaten. It’s a perfect fragrance and the reference point for all other figs. And she’s ripe for a comeback.